A QUICK GUIDE TO THE COMMISSION PROCESS
The process is very straightforward and I approach each commission individually, working with you to ensure the end result meets with your expectations! I'm very happy to answer your questions with no obligation, so please get in touch.
DELIVERY
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REFERENCE PHOTOS
The general rule is 'the better the photo, the better the portrait'. A sharp, high resolution image is key. Take new pictures specifically for the portrait if possible. Of course I understand you may have a favourite photo or that sadly your pet may no longer be with us; so I'm very happy to look at any photos you have. I'll let you know from the outset if they can't be used.​​ You can find tips on taking or choosing a great reference photo here.​
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SIZE
​Once I've received your photos we can select the best image to use and the composition/size of the portrait you prefer. I typically work on paper 10"x12", 11"x14", 12"x14" but larger sizes and square sizes are also available. The smallest I recommend is 10"x12" which is ideal for 3/4 pose of a single child or dog, also known as a 'head and shoulders' portrait. Any smaller and I won't be able to achieve the required level of detail. Prices are determined by size and the number of subjects.​
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WORK BEGINS!
​When the details have been finalised I'll give you an estimated completion date. Portraits are usually completed in 2 to 3 weeks and I can send you a progress image if you would like to see one. When the portrait is complete, I'll send you a digital proof for your approval.
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For UK delivery of commissioned work, I use Royal Mail Next Day Special Delivery, a tracked and signed-for service. If you need another service please ask. International orders are sent via secure service, allow 3-7 days. More on delivery here.​
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A good photograph is key to a successful portrait
To create a highly detailed portrait I need a sharp digital image to work from. I will enlarge and print the image and may also reference it on an ipad, zooming in to look closely at small areas, so high resolution is essential! ​ As a general rule, if you zoom in on your photo and the details appear pixelated or blurred, it will not have the clarity needed.
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The better the photo the better the portrait!​
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Capturing a reference photograph
NATURAL LIGHT ​
Photos taken in natural light get the best results, preferably taken outside on a light, cloudy day. Avoid direct sunlight as this can cast hard shadows and make your subject squint. Artificial lighting or flash can change natural colours and add unwanted shadows. If you choose to take your photos indoors, position your subject in front of a window.​​​​​
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APPEARANCE & POSE​
It's important to capture the natural personality and appearance of your pet or family member through their position or facial expression. Consider different poses; for example, you may wish a child to simply look at the camera smiling; or prefer them to be looking up, down, or away in a more pensive pose; or head resting in their hands. Although a smiling face is lovely, I find that a wide open mouth and lots of teeth doesn't translate well in a drawing!
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PERSPECTIVE
Photos are best taken at your pet or child's height, rather than from above or below, as this can destort the view. However, that said, a higher angle can work well for a less traditional portrait depending on how you wish them to be captured on paper. It's usually better if the subject is neither directly face on nor directly side on to the camera, as they can look a bit flat. Ensure all aspects of the face are in focus and that eye shape and colour are clearly visible.
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COMPOSITION​
Aim to get a good close-up, ensuring tops of heads etc are within the frame. A popular choice is a 3/4 pose, also know as 'head and shoulders' pose and for this you don't need to include any more than the upper body in your photo.​​ Check the background to make sure your subject stands out against it.​​​ Remove hats, hairbands, jewellery or pet collars if you prefer them not to be included but feel free to leave them in place otherwise!
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GET SNAP HAPPY!​
I appreciate that keeping a child or dog still for photos can be tricky! Holding up a favourite treat or toy can help. Take lots of pictures and then narrow down your choices, discarding any that are out of focus. I'm very happy to look through your images to help you find the best.
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TECHNIQUE​
Having given thought to composition, tone and colours, I create a light line drawing, placing key features and hair/fur structure. Then I work on a small area at a time, often beginning with the eyes, as I find this instantly brings the subject to life. Using a layering technique, I put graphite or colour down, using light pressure to mark up lights and darks. When the first layers are down I add detail, building up graphite tone or colour many times over, referencing the subject's photograph closely throughout. When creating fine fur I might use the extraction technique, pulling out colour from the page with a pen cutter or fine eraser. Coloured pencil work is a lengthy process, a small area can take 2 hours or more to complete.
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All materials I use are professional grade and acid-free. I favour Faber-Castell graphite pencils, Faber-Castell Polychromos, Caran d'Ache Luminance and Pablo coloured pencils. These brands have highly concentrated lightfast pigments to guarantee your portrait is preserved for many years to come. I use a range of high quality papers such as Legion Stonehenge, Bristol, Clairefontaine pastelmat and Grafix drafting film.
MATERIALS
